CASUAL RESTOS SARAH MUSGRAVE
The Gazette, Montreal , Saturday, October 1, 2005
MUMBAI IS A WELCOME SIGHT IN ITS PART OF ST. HENRI,
SERVING UP VARYING DEGREES OF INDIAN HEAT
A HIT OF SPICE ON THE STRIP
The first thing that struck me about Mumbai was how the menu is divided. Instead of the more common poultry, red meat and veggie breakdown, its Indian dishes are grouped according to heat level: from mild, medium spicy, spicy to the very alluring “traditional spicy,” or, as others might put it, from wimpy to daring.
Other than that, Mumbai stands out for being particularly well turned out on a strip of St. Henri peppered with hot dog parlours. The simple setting features muted tones, clean white tablecloths and frosted windows that avoid the fishbowl effect on a not-always spic and span strip.
A plate of papery papadum didn’t immediately move us, nor did a bowl of dhal soup, lacklustre despite its gorgeous golden colour and the requisite slice of lemon floating in the lentil purée. A starting order of onion bhaji went down with more appreciation, twisted batter balls of lentil and chickpea flower that could be dipped in a sweet sauce.
Flavours in the main courses continued the sweet rather than strong approach. The Mumbai mix was a really nice idea, bringing together chunks of fish and shrimp in a light, tomato-based curry. The pieces of salmon were perfectly cooked, moist and just flaking, but the choice of this over a white fish made for a strange mixture of tastes.
Another house specialty is a mixed grill, cooked tandoor style. The sight of crimsontinged meats assembled around mint sauce led one of my companions to reflect that “there really aren’t enough red foods out there.”
Items ranged from lamb morsels in a dry marinade to too-firm chicken tikka to delectable tandoori chicken leg and juicy minced meat sheek kebab, both highlights. For $15.99 this could happily be shared, rounded out with a vegetable preparation.
Mushrooms cooked in butter were plump and moist and very straightfoward. Tarka dhal fared better than the soup – soft and comforting, made from those same yellow lentils.
If the sides, like the appetizers, seemed rather safe, the lamb Colombo put us on alert. A “traditionally spicy” offering that the waitress hinted was perhaps too hot, it’s best for firewalkers or at least those armed with mini-tissue packs, but beneath the hot chilies was a layer of interest for the tongues, helped along by coconut milk.
Over dessert of fried milk balls, we agreed that while not worth a special trip for savvy curry seekers, Mumbai is a happy addition for any one who lives in the neighbourhood- wimpy or daring.
